Improvement in tuckers for sewing-machines



UNITED STATEs PATENT OEEIcE.

THOMAS M. FARRAND, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

i IMPROVEMENT IN TUCKERS FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 128,475, dated July 2,1872.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, THOMAS M. FAERAND, of Boston, in the county ofSuffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an ImprovedTuck-Folder and Guide for Sewing-Machines 5 and I do hereby declare thatthe following, taken in connection with the drawing which accompaniesand forms part of this specication, is a description of my inventionsufficient side elevation thereof'. C is an end view. D,

is a top view, showing the hemmer. E is an edge view of the hemmer. adenotes the main plate, the front edge b of which forms the shoulder,between which and the .folder the cloth is folded or turned. This plateis fastened to the sewing-machine top or work-supporting surface by ascrew passing through a slot, c, said slot enabling the plate to be setat any requisite distance from the needle to determine the width oftuck. From this plate extends the tuck-folder bar or arm d, said barbeing, preferably, narrower and thinnerthan the platea, and its bottomsurface l[lush with the bottom surface of the plate. At the rear part ofthe arm it turns over and forms a bow,

e, its front end .fr bending down and lying against or nearly in contactwith the part of the arm nearest the plate a, the end of the armreaching nearly but not quite' to the edge, as seen at A. f denotes thetuck-gauge, the shank of which is fastened to the plate by a screw, g,passing through a slot, h, the slot permitting the lgauge to be setforward or back, in accordance with the width of the tuck om 'the edgeof the cloth, (for the first tuck,) or

down, forming a guide-lip, ,which rests against the top surface of thearm a'. The cloth is rolled up and introduced into the bow e, and itsedge is drawn through between the parts d w and out between the edge band edge my, and is folded over the edge m and top w, during whichoperation the gauge f is not in place.

The edge having been thus folded over the gauge is drawn over theturned-over edge of the cloth; and the edge being carried forward to theproper extent for the distance of the tuck from the edge (the plate ahaving been previously set in accordance with the width of tuckrequired) the gauge is set so that the lip t' is in position against theedge of the cloth, and is fastened, and the cloth is then ready to befed and the tuck stitched, the part of the fold nearest the edge mconstituting the tuck. When one tuck is stitched the line of stitches orseam forms the guide which is held against the lip of the gauge f forthe next tuck. If the successive tucks are to be of the same width, the

plate a is not moved, and if they are also to be equidistant anadjustable set-plate, n, may be employed, said platebeing moved upagainst the endo of the tuck-gauge f, and fastened before the gauge ismoved, and the gauge being then moved in order to bring the .cloth intoposition for a new tuck the cloth is brought to such position, and thegauge is then set back into position; the sameposition and theconsequent correctness of position of the new tuck being insured bysimply bringing the end o against the set-plate n, no measurement beingnecessary. In tuckin g a piece tubular in form, as a skirt, it is verydesirable to complete the stitching (or to stitch entirely around)without removing the work. The presence of the end m of the bar or arm0o prevents this, and I therefore make the end of the bar as a slide orwith a tongue, p, fitting and sliding into the plate a, as seen at C,the plate and bar being fastened together by a screw, k. When the pieceis stitched, so that the first-made stitches reach the side of the baropposite to the needle the screw k is loosened or removed, and the bar dis drawn out from the plate a far enough from the end b to clear thetuck fold. The stitching may then be completed, the guiding-edge m beingin position, and also the lip t', if desirable. By wholly removing thebar d and retaining the spring-gaugef the plate c and gauge f may beused together as a self-sewer, the edge b being the guiding-Wall and thespring-gauge f serving to cause the edge of the Work to draw up towardand keep against the edge. In connection With the plate a and the bar da hemming device7 q, may be used7 such device taking the place of thespringgauge f. This hemmer is made With the slotted shank r, which isconned to the plate a by the screw g and with an edge-turning lip7 s,said lip being curled, so that the edge of the cloth is turned entirelyunder by it.

In using the hemmer, the edge of the cloth is drawn under the arm x andover its top, and the guide s is set at a distance from the edge equalto the Width of the hem to be made, the

